Japan Travels Part 5 - Kamakura....Great Buddha....Enoshima....

A Day of Spirit and Sea

After our serene journey through Nikko’s mountains and waterfalls, we traveled south toward the coastal town of Kamakura, a city where Japan’s samurai history, spirituality, and seaside beauty meet in perfect balance. Located just an hour from Tokyo, Kamakura was once the political heart of Japan during the Kamakura Shogunate (1185–1333), and today it remains a place of quiet reflection and timeless grace.

Kamakura – The First Samurai Capital

In the late 12th century, Kamakura became the seat of Japan’s first military government under Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate. This period marked the rise of the samurai class and a major shift in Japanese history — from imperial rule to warrior governance.

Beyond politics, Kamakura became the cradle of Zen Buddhism in Japan. Monks who traveled to China brought back teachings that deeply influenced samurai philosophy — discipline, mindfulness, and the pursuit of inner calm. That spiritual foundation still echoes through Kamakura’s temples and gardens, where every sound, every still moment, feels connected to centuries of reflection.

The Great Buddha of Kamakura – Daibutsu of Kotoku-in

Our first stop was the majestic Great Buddha of Kamakura, known locally as Kamakura Daibutsu. The statue sits peacefully at the Kotoku-in Temple, surrounded by greenery and open skies. Cast in bronze in the mid-13th century, this statue of Amida Buddha stands 13.35 meters tall and weighs over 120 tons — a breathtaking symbol of strength and serenity.

As we approached, the first thing that struck us was the Buddha’s expression — calm, compassionate, and timeless. His half-closed eyes seemed to gaze inward, embodying the stillness of enlightenment. The statue originally sat inside a large wooden hall, but after powerful tsunamis in the 15th century destroyed the structure, the Buddha has remained outdoors — serene and unshaken through centuries of wind and rain.

Standing before it, we could feel an indescribable sense of peace. The rustle of pines, the faint tolling of temple bells, and the quiet reverence of visitors created an atmosphere of spiritual stillness.

 

Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine – The Heart of Kamakura

Our next stop was the grand Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, dedicated to Hachiman, the god of warriors. Founded in the 11th century, it became the spiritual heart of the samurai government. The shrine, standing proudly on a hilltop, is reached by a broad stone staircase lined with cherry trees and lanterns.

It was a festive day — the Shichi-Go-San celebration, where children aged three, five, and seven are blessed for health and happiness. Families filled the shrine grounds in colorful kimonos. The rhythmic beat of drums, the ringing of bells, and the soft chanting of priests filled the air, blending devotion with joy. Watching parents gently guide their children to bow and pray was heartwarming — a glimpse of Japan’s enduring family traditions.

From the top, we gazed down at Kamakura’s streets stretching toward the shimmering sea, a view that seemed to bridge centuries.

Maruyama Inari Shrine – The Fox Guardians

Our next visit was to the Maruyama Inari Shrine, dedicated to the goddess of agriculture and prosperity. The entrance, lined with brilliant vermilion torii gates, led to a tranquil courtyard guarded by two fox statues — the messengers of the deity Inari. The foxes, holding scrolls and keys, symbolize wisdom and abundance.

We offered a small prayer and rang the shrine bell, its clear chime echoing softly in the forest air. It was a quiet, contemplative stop — one that reminded us of the deep harmony between faith and daily life in Japan.

Hase-dera Temple – The Goddess of Mercy

Not far from the Great Buddha lies the serene Hase-dera Temple, dedicated to Kannon, the goddess of mercy. Built along a wooded hillside overlooking the ocean, this temple is famous for its towering eleven-headed statue of Kannon, carved from a single block of camphor wood in the 8th century.

Inside, the fragrance of incense and the soft sound of chanting filled the hall. Each of Kannon’s heads represents a different form of compassion, offering blessings to all who seek peace and protection. Outside, the temple gardens bloomed with hydrangeas, koi ponds reflected the afternoon light, and from the upper terrace, we admired a breathtaking view of the Pacific coastline — a perfect blend of nature and spirituality.

 Enoshima Island – Where the Sea Meets Spirit

By late afternoon, we crossed the bridge to Enoshima Island, a small, enchanting island in Sagami Bay. Known for its shrines, ocean views, and romantic sunsets, Enoshima is both a pilgrimage site and a beloved seaside escape.

We climbed narrow, bustling streets filled with cozy cafés and souvenir shops, the scent of grilled seafood and roasted chestnuts wafting through the air. At the top stood the Enoshima Shrine, dedicated to Benzaiten, the goddess of music, beauty, and the arts.

From the Samuel Cocking Garden and observation tower, we took in sweeping views of the coastline — and, in the distance, the faint outline of Mount Fuji emerging through the mist. As the sun dipped low, the sky turned gold and rose, and the sea shimmered like liquid light. It was one of those rare, quiet moments when time seems to pause.

The Legend of Benzaiten – Goddess of Enoshima

According to legend, long ago a five-headed dragon terrorized the area around Enoshima. The compassionate goddess Benzaiten, descended from the heavens and caused the island to rise from the sea. Struck by her kindness and beauty, the dragon repented and vowed to protect the people.

Benzaiten, originally a Hindu goddess (Saraswati), was brought to Japan through Buddhism and became the only female among the traditional Seven Lucky Gods. She is worshipped as the patron of music, wisdom, beauty, and love, and travelers visit Enoshima to pray for artistic inspiration and harmonious relationships. Even today, her presence seems to float in the sea breeze, blessing the island with a gentle, joyful energy.

Reflection – Kamakura’s Eternal Calm

Kamakura is more than a city of temples; it is a living prayer.

Here, stone Buddhas and wooden shrines breathe the same sea air, and the echoes of drums, waves, and footsteps blend into one gentle rhythm.

In the gaze of the Great Buddha, in the smile of a child dressed for blessings,

we found what Japan teaches so beautifully — that peace is not found, it is felt.

And as the sun set over Enoshima’s horizon, the sea carried our hearts with it — serene, light, and full of wonder.

                                            PEACE ON EARTH

ll content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.