Japan Travels – Part 4: Nikko Tosho-gu.... Lake Chuzenji....Kegon Falls

After experiencing the cultural splendor of Kyoto, our journey continued north to the enchanting mountain town of Nikko, a place where nature and spirituality coexist in perfect harmony. Nestled in the lush mountains of Tochigi Prefecture, about two hours from Tokyo, Nikko is renowned for its magnificent shrines, sacred waterfalls, and the whisper of history that lingers in its cedar-scented air.

The Sacred Town of Nikko

Nikko’s history dates back to the 8th century when the Buddhist monk Shodo Shonin established the first temple here. Over the centuries, it became a center of faith and pilgrimage. Later, during the Edo period, Nikko rose to prominence when Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, was enshrined here as a deity. The lavish Toshogu Shrine, built in his honor by his grandson, symbolizes both devotion and the artistic grandeur of Japan’s golden age.

Toshogu Shrine – Where Art Meets Faith

The entrance to Toshogu Shrine felt like stepping into a sacred masterpiece. Surrounded by towering cedar trees that seemed to touch the heavens, the shrine complex dazzled with intricate carvings, gold leaf, and vivid colors. Unlike most temples in Japan known for their simplicity, Toshogu bursts with ornate details — a visual celebration of life and eternity.

At the Yomeimon Gate, often called the “Gate of the Setting Sun,” we stood in awe of over 500 carvings depicting animals, flowers, and mythical beings. Each carving tells a story — of virtue, compassion, and the impermanence of life.

One of the most beloved carvings is that of the Three Wise Monkeys — Mizaru, Kikazaru, and Iwazaru — who “see no evil, hear no evil, and speak no evil.” This playful yet profound motif, said to originate from Confucian teachings, reflects the moral philosophy that guided Japan’s feudal era.

Nearby, we saw the unusual carving of imaginary elephants — the Sozonozo Elephants. The artist, having never seen a real elephant, created them from imagination, giving them a charming, almost mythical look. They stand as a reminder of how creativity transcends knowledge — and how art often interprets the unseen.

The Hissing Dragon – Sacred Sounds in the Ceiling

 Inside one of the shrine halls, we experienced something truly magical — the “Hissing Dragon” (Nakiryū). Painted on the ceiling of the Yakushido Hall is a magnificent dragon, its body coiled across the roof beams. When a monk strikes a wooden stick on the floor beneath the dragon’s head, the acoustics of the hall make the sound resonate like a dragon’s hiss. The echo, sharp and haunting, seems to fill the space with sacred energy — a spiritual reminder that life itself vibrates with unseen power.

The air inside the shrine was cool and still, yet alive with centuries of prayers and devotion. Standing there, listening to the reverberating sound, we could feel the blending of faith and art that defines Nikko’s soul.

We had the delicious Shojin Ryori or Devotion cuisine for lunch. This is a vegetarian/vegan cuisine. It is also called as "Yuba the Monk's lunch. 

 Lake Chuzenji – A Mirror of the Mountains

Just a short distance away lies the serene Lake Chuzenji (Chūzenji-ko), formed long ago by the eruption of Mount Nantai. Nestled at an altitude of about 1,200 meters, the lake is surrounded by lush forests and picturesque hills.

As we walked along the lakeside, we were greeted by a calm breeze and the shimmering reflection of the mountains on the crystal-clear water. Small boats floated lazily near the pier, and cozy lakeside cafés invited visitors to sit back and enjoy a warm cup of tea. The atmosphere was peaceful, untouched, and perfectly balanced between nature and quiet human presence.

The autumn colors had just begun to tint the trees, adding shades of gold and red to the landscape — a gentle hint of the season to come. We took a leisurely stroll, pausing often to capture the serene views that seemed to stretch endlessly across the horizon.

Majestic Kegon Falls

Our next stop was the magnificent Kegon Falls, one of Japan’s top three waterfalls. The waterfall drops dramatically from a height of about 97 meters, surrounded by towering cliffs covered in moss and trees. The sound of rushing water echoed through the valley, blending with the soft rustle of leaves.

We took the elevator down to the viewing platform, where we could feel the cool mist from the falls on our faces. It was a moment of pure tranquility — watching the powerful cascade glisten in the sunlight as it plunged into the emerald pool below. The view was so mesmerizing that it felt almost spiritual, a reminder of nature’s raw and gentle strength.

Nikko - Reflection

As we made our way back through the cedar-lined paths, the air grew cooler, and the forest seemed to hum with ancient stories. The day had been filled with art, faith, and wonder — from golden temples and mystical dragons to the timeless power of waterfalls.

In Nikko, every whisper of wind carries the voice of the past — the prayers of monks, the songs of waterfalls, and the echoes of a hissing dragon beneath golden beams.

Here, faith takes the shape of carvings, and art becomes prayer.

Among cedar trees that have watched over centuries, we learned that beauty does not shout — it breathes.

Nikko’s magic lies in its quiet harmony, where nature, spirit, and history embrace in timeless peace.

 

PEACE ON EARTH

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