Japan Travels Part 5 - Kamakura....Great Buddha....Enoshima....

A Day of Spirit and Sea

After our serene journey through Nikko’s mountains and waterfalls, we traveled south toward the coastal town of Kamakura, a city where Japan’s samurai history, spirituality, and seaside beauty meet in perfect balance. Located just an hour from Tokyo, Kamakura was once the political heart of Japan during the Kamakura Shogunate (1185–1333), and today it remains a place of quiet reflection and timeless grace.

Kamakura – The First Samurai Capital

In the late 12th century, Kamakura became the seat of Japan’s first military government under Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate. This period marked the rise of the samurai class and a major shift in Japanese history — from imperial rule to warrior governance.

Beyond politics, Kamakura became the cradle of Zen Buddhism in Japan. Monks who traveled to China brought back teachings that deeply influenced samurai philosophy — discipline, mindfulness, and the pursuit of inner calm. That spiritual foundation still echoes through Kamakura’s temples and gardens, where every sound, every still moment, feels connected to centuries of reflection.

The Great Buddha of Kamakura – Daibutsu of Kotoku-in

Our first stop was the majestic Great Buddha of Kamakura, known locally as Kamakura Daibutsu. The statue sits peacefully at the Kotoku-in Temple, surrounded by greenery and open skies. Cast in bronze in the mid-13th century, this statue of Amida Buddha stands 13.35 meters tall and weighs over 120 tons — a breathtaking symbol of strength and serenity.

As we approached, the first thing that struck us was the Buddha’s expression — calm, compassionate, and timeless. His half-closed eyes seemed to gaze inward, embodying the stillness of enlightenment. The statue originally sat inside a large wooden hall, but after powerful tsunamis in the 15th century destroyed the structure, the Buddha has remained outdoors — serene and unshaken through centuries of wind and rain.

Standing before it, we could feel an indescribable sense of peace. The rustle of pines, the faint tolling of temple bells, and the quiet reverence of visitors created an atmosphere of spiritual stillness.

 

Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine – The Heart of Kamakura

Our next stop was the grand Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, dedicated to Hachiman, the god of warriors. Founded in the 11th century, it became the spiritual heart of the samurai government. The shrine, standing proudly on a hilltop, is reached by a broad stone staircase lined with cherry trees and lanterns.

It was a festive day — the Shichi-Go-San celebration, where children aged three, five, and seven are blessed for health and happiness. Families filled the shrine grounds in colorful kimonos. The rhythmic beat of drums, the ringing of bells, and the soft chanting of priests filled the air, blending devotion with joy. Watching parents gently guide their children to bow and pray was heartwarming — a glimpse of Japan’s enduring family traditions.

From the top, we gazed down at Kamakura’s streets stretching toward the shimmering sea, a view that seemed to bridge centuries.

Maruyama Inari Shrine – The Fox Guardians

Our next visit was to the Maruyama Inari Shrine, dedicated to the goddess of agriculture and prosperity. The entrance, lined with brilliant vermilion torii gates, led to a tranquil courtyard guarded by two fox statues — the messengers of the deity Inari. The foxes, holding scrolls and keys, symbolize wisdom and abundance.

We offered a small prayer and rang the shrine bell, its clear chime echoing softly in the forest air. It was a quiet, contemplative stop — one that reminded us of the deep harmony between faith and daily life in Japan.

Hase-dera Temple – The Goddess of Mercy

Not far from the Great Buddha lies the serene Hase-dera Temple, dedicated to Kannon, the goddess of mercy. Built along a wooded hillside overlooking the ocean, this temple is famous for its towering eleven-headed statue of Kannon, carved from a single block of camphor wood in the 8th century.

Inside, the fragrance of incense and the soft sound of chanting filled the hall. Each of Kannon’s heads represents a different form of compassion, offering blessings to all who seek peace and protection. 

Outside, the temple gardens bloomed with hydrangeas, koi ponds reflected the afternoon light, and from the upper terrace, we admired a breathtaking view of the Pacific coastline — a perfect blend of nature and spirituality.

 Enoshima Island – Where the Sea Meets Spirit

By late afternoon, we crossed the bridge to Enoshima Island, a small, enchanting island in Sagami Bay. Known for its shrines, ocean views, and romantic sunsets, Enoshima is both a pilgrimage site and a beloved seaside escape.

We climbed narrow, bustling streets filled with cozy cafés and souvenir shops, the scent of grilled seafood and roasted chestnuts wafting through the air. At the top stood the Enoshima Shrine, dedicated to Benzaiten, the goddess of music, beauty, and the arts.

From the Samuel Cocking Garden and observation tower, we took in sweeping views of the coastline — and, in the distance, the faint outline of Mount Fuji emerging through the mist. As the sun dipped low, the sky turned gold and rose, and the sea shimmered like liquid light. It was one of those rare, quiet moments when time seems to pause.

The Legend of Benzaiten – Goddess of Enoshima

According to legend, long ago a five-headed dragon terrorized the area around Enoshima. The compassionate goddess Benzaiten, descended from the heavens and caused the island to rise from the sea. Struck by her kindness and beauty, the dragon repented and vowed to protect the people.

Benzaiten, originally a Hindu goddess (Saraswati), was brought to Japan through Buddhism and became the only female among the traditional Seven Lucky Gods. She is worshipped as the patron of music, wisdom, beauty, and love, and travelers visit Enoshima to pray for artistic inspiration and harmonious relationships. Even today, her presence seems to float in the sea breeze, blessing the island with a gentle, joyful energy.

Reflection – Kamakura’s Eternal Calm

Kamakura is more than a city of temples; it is a living prayer.

Here, stone Buddhas and wooden shrines breathe the same sea air, and the echoes of drums, waves, and footsteps blend into one gentle rhythm.

In the gaze of the Great Buddha, in the smile of a child dressed for blessings, we found what Japan teaches so beautifully — that peace is not found, it is felt.

And as the sun set over Enoshima’s horizon, the sea carried our hearts with it — serene, light, and full of wonder.

Sayonara, Japan

Until we meet again - in the rustle of bamboo, the call of temple bells, and the quiet stillness of Fuji San watching over the beautiful land and its traditions.

                                            PEACE ON EARTH

ll content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.

Japan Travels – Part 4: Nikko Tosho-gu.... Lake Chuzenji....Kegon Falls

After experiencing the cultural splendor of Kyoto, our journey continued north to the enchanting mountain town of Nikko, a place where nature and spirituality coexist in perfect harmony. Nestled in the lush mountains of Tochigi Prefecture, about two hours from Tokyo, Nikko is renowned for its magnificent shrines, sacred waterfalls, and the whisper of history that lingers in its cedar-scented air.

The Sacred Town of Nikko

Nikko’s history dates back to the 8th century when the Buddhist monk Shodo Shonin established the first temple here. Over the centuries, it became a center of faith and pilgrimage. Later, during the Edo period, Nikko rose to prominence when Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, was enshrined here as a deity. The lavish Toshogu Shrine, built in his honor by his grandson, symbolizes both devotion and the artistic grandeur of Japan’s golden age.

Toshogu Shrine – Where Art Meets Faith

The entrance to Toshogu Shrine felt like stepping into a sacred masterpiece. Surrounded by towering cedar trees that seemed to touch the heavens, the shrine complex dazzled with intricate carvings, gold leaf, and vivid colors. Unlike most temples in Japan known for their simplicity, Toshogu bursts with ornate details — a visual celebration of life and eternity.

At the Yomeimon Gate, often called the “Gate of the Setting Sun,” we stood in awe of over 500 carvings depicting animals, flowers, and mythical beings. Each carving tells a story — of virtue, compassion, and the impermanence of life.

One of the most beloved carvings is that of the Three Wise Monkeys — Mizaru, Kikazaru, and Iwazaru — who “see no evil, hear no evil, and speak no evil.” This playful yet profound motif, said to originate from Confucian teachings, reflects the moral philosophy that guided Japan’s feudal era.

Nearby, we saw the unusual carving of imaginary elephants — the Sozonozo Elephants. The artist, having never seen a real elephant, created them from imagination, giving them a charming, almost mythical look. They stand as a reminder of how creativity transcends knowledge — and how art often interprets the unseen.

The Hissing Dragon – Sacred Sounds in the Ceiling

 Inside one of the shrine halls, we experienced something truly magical — the “Hissing Dragon” (Nakiryū). Painted on the ceiling of the Yakushido Hall is a magnificent dragon, its body coiled across the roof beams. When a monk strikes a wooden stick on the floor beneath the dragon’s head, the acoustics of the hall make the sound resonate like a dragon’s hiss. The echo, sharp and haunting, seems to fill the space with sacred energy — a spiritual reminder that life itself vibrates with unseen power.

The air inside the shrine was cool and still, yet alive with centuries of prayers and devotion. Standing there, listening to the reverberating sound, we could feel the blending of faith and art that defines Nikko’s soul.

We had the delicious Shojin Ryori or Devotion cuisine for lunch. This is a vegetarian/vegan cuisine. It is also called as "Yuba the Monk's lunch. 

 Lake Chuzenji – A Mirror of the Mountains

Just a short distance away lies the serene Lake Chuzenji (Chūzenji-ko), formed long ago by the eruption of Mount Nantai. Nestled at an altitude of about 1,200 meters, the lake is surrounded by lush forests and picturesque hills.

As we walked along the lakeside, we were greeted by a calm breeze and the shimmering reflection of the mountains on the crystal-clear water. Small boats floated lazily near the pier, and cozy lakeside cafés invited visitors to sit back and enjoy a warm cup of tea. The atmosphere was peaceful, untouched, and perfectly balanced between nature and quiet human presence.

The autumn colors had just begun to tint the trees, adding shades of gold and red to the landscape — a gentle hint of the season to come. We took a leisurely stroll, pausing often to capture the serene views that seemed to stretch endlessly across the horizon.

Majestic Kegon Falls

Our next stop was the magnificent Kegon Falls, one of Japan’s top three waterfalls. The waterfall drops dramatically from a height of about 97 meters, surrounded by towering cliffs covered in moss and trees. The sound of rushing water echoed through the valley, blending with the soft rustle of leaves.

We took the elevator down to the viewing platform, where we could feel the cool mist from the falls on our faces. It was a moment of pure tranquility — watching the powerful cascade glisten in the sunlight as it plunged into the emerald pool below. The view was so mesmerizing that it felt almost spiritual, a reminder of nature’s raw and gentle strength.

Nikko - Reflection

As we made our way back through the cedar-lined paths, the air grew cooler, and the forest seemed to hum with ancient stories. The day had been filled with art, faith, and wonder — from golden temples and mystical dragons to the timeless power of waterfalls.

In Nikko, every whisper of wind carries the voice of the past — the prayers of monks, the songs of waterfalls, and the echoes of a hissing dragon beneath golden beams.

Here, faith takes the shape of carvings, and art becomes prayer.

Among cedar trees that have watched over centuries, we learned that beauty does not shout — it breathes.

Nikko’s magic lies in its quiet harmony, where nature, spirit, and history embrace in timeless peace.

 

PEACE ON EARTH

All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.

Japan Travels – Part 3: Kyoto…. Cultural…. Heritage

After our delightful days in Tokyo and Hakone, the next destination on our Japan journey was the ancient city of Kyoto—a timeless blend of history, spirituality, and tradition. Often called the cultural heart of Japan, Kyoto is home to thousands of temples and shrines that whisper stories of centuries past.

A Ride on the Shinkansen (Bullet Train)

Our adventure began with a thrilling ride on the Shinkansen, Japan’s famous bullet train. Sleek, punctual, and unbelievably fast, it carried us from Tokyo to Kyoto in just about two and a half hours. Watching the countryside flash by through the window—green fields, distant mountains, and quiet villages—was an experience in itself. 

 When we arrived at Kyoto Station, our friendly tour guide greeted us warmly and handed over a list of temples and historic sites to explore. With great excitement, we began our journey into Japan’s rich cultural soul.

Faith and Tradition

Japan is a land shaped by two major religions—Shinto and Buddhism—which coexist beautifully in everyday life. 

Everywhere we went, we saw Shinto shrines—bright red gates standing gracefully at the entrances, inviting both worshippers and travelers. Shintoism, much like Hinduism, honors nature in all its forms. Mountains, rivers, animals, and even rocks are revered as deities. There are gods for prosperity, agriculture, success, and even warfare—each symbolizing harmony between humans and nature.

Buddhism, introduced to Japan in the 6th century by monks from China and Korea, brought with it art, philosophy, and a meditative way of life. Over time, these two faiths intertwined, shaping Japan’s distinct spiritual landscape.

Temples of Tranquility

Our first stop was the Fushimi Inari Shrine, one of Kyoto’s most iconic sites. The famous thousand vermilion torii gates stretched up the hillside, forming a mesmerizing tunnel that seemed to lead into another world. Each gate, donated by individuals or businesses, carried inscriptions of gratitude and prayers for prosperity. As we walked through, the rhythmic pattern of red and light created an atmosphere of calm and devotion.

 Next, we visited the Sanjusangen-dō Temple, an awe-inspiring Buddhist hall known for its 1,001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. Each statue, carved centuries ago, had delicate features and serene expressions. It was fascinating to see Sanskrit inscriptions alongside Japanese names, reflecting how cultures had intertwined through faith and artistry. The quiet of the temple, the gentle scent of incense, and the golden glow of the statues left us deeply moved.

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By the end of the day, Kyoto had already begun to weave its magic—where every corner seemed to echo with history, and every shrine felt like a doorway to peace.

After an inspiring day at Kiyomizu-dera, our exploration of Kyoto continued with visits to some of its most picturesque and historic landmarks. Every corner of the city seemed to blend spirituality with art, history with harmony, and tradition with a quiet sense of grace.

The Golden Pavilion – Kinkaku-ji

Next a visit to the magnificent Kinkaku-ji, or the Golden Pavilion, one of Kyoto’s most celebrated temples and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Set beside a tranquil lake, the temple shimmered in the soft sunlight, its gold-leaf exterior beautifully mirrored on the still waters below.

Originally built as a retirement villa for a shogun in the 14th century, Kinkaku-ji later became a Zen Buddhist temple. Standing before it, surrounded by lush gardens and the reflection of gold dancing on the water, felt almost surreal—like stepping into a painting. The peaceful sound of rustling leaves and the gentle ringing of temple bells created an atmosphere of perfect serenity.

The Philosopher’s Path

From there, we made our way to the Philosopher’s Path, a scenic walkway that runs alongside a canal lined with hundreds of cherry trees. Though we visited outside the sakura season, the place still radiated tranquility. The stone path was dotted with quaint cafés, small shrines, and art shops—each inviting travelers to pause, reflect, and enjoy the beauty of simple moments.

The path takes its name from a Kyoto University philosopher who once walked this route daily for meditation and contemplation. As we strolled along, we could easily imagine the calm rhythm of his thoughts blending with the murmur of the stream beside us.

Gion – Where Tradition Lives On

In the evening, we explored Gion, Kyoto’s famous geisha district, where the old-world charm of Japan still thrives. The narrow streets were lined with traditional wooden machiya houses, softly glowing lanterns, and teahouses that seemed untouched by time

 We got some glimpses of maiko (apprentice geishas) gracefully walking to their evening engagements, dressed in exquisite silk kimonos and elaborate hair ornaments. Every detail—from their delicate steps to their polite bows—reflected Japan’s enduring respect for beauty and discipline. The gentle hum of conversation, the aroma of Japanese tea, and the sight of paper lanterns swaying in the breeze made it feel like we had stepped into another era. By the time we returned to our hotel, the city lights of Kyoto sparkled like stars across the hills. Our hearts were full—with admiration for Japan’s timeless culture and gratitude for the memories it had already given us.

Kyoto – Reflection

Kyoto was where Japan’s soul came alive for us. Each temple and shrine—whether Fushimi Inari’s endless red torii gates, the tranquil Sanjusangen-do with its thousand Buddhas, or the World Heritage Kiyomizu-dera—spoke of devotion, art, and centuries of history. Watching kimono-clad visitors and children marching for sports day brought warmth to the ancient streets. Kyoto’s quiet grace reminded me that tradition and modernity can coexist beautifully, and that every prayer, every step on its cobbled lanes, tells a story of time itself.

 

                                  PEACE ON EARTH

All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.

Japan Travels Part 2 – Mt. Fuji.….Hakone….Lake Ashi

 A Day Trip to Mt. Fuji

With great anticipation, we began our Mt. Fuji tour the next morning. The drive itself was an experience — passing through stretches of green countryside, quiet villages, and gently rolling hills. Every now and then, Fuji-San appeared through the drifting clouds — its symmetrical cone, snow-capped and serene, rising majestically above the horizon. Our guide Miko was very good in explaining the ancient lores around Mt. Fuji. 

Our destination was the 5th Station on the Subaru Line, one of the most popular points on the mountain for visitors and climbers alike. It is like the Everest base camp. The Subaru Line, completed in 1964, is a scenic toll road that winds up the northern slope of Mt. Fuji, connecting the base town of Fujiyoshida to the 5th Station at about 2,300 meters above sea level. The road itself is a marvel, offering breathtaking views of forests, volcanic terrain, and the changing vegetation as one ascends the mountain.

Standing at the 5th Station, we were surrounded by a cool, refreshing mountain breeze. The air was crisp, and the view stretched endlessly across the clouds and valleys below. This is the point where many climbers begin their ascent to the summit — a journey that takes several hours and is often timed to reach the peak at sunrise.

For us, it was enough to simply stand there, breathing in the thin mountain air and feeling the quiet energy of Fuji-san, as the Japanese affectionately call their sacred volcano. Mt. Fuji last erupted over 300 years ago, in 1707, during the Edo period. Despite its dormant state, it still commands deep reverence, considered both a spiritual symbol and a natural guardian watching over Tokyo and the surrounding region.

Small souvenir shops, shrines, and cafés dotted the 5th Station area, where visitors offered prayers for safe travels. The view of the clouds drifting below our feet made us feel as though we were standing in the heavens themselves.

Hakone and Lake Ashi

From Mt. Fuji, we continued our journey toward Hakone, a picturesque region celebrated for its hot springs, mountain views, and natural beauty. The drive was filled with ever-changing scenery — winding roads, misty hills, and glimpses of distant lakes.

Our first adventure in Hakone was the Hakone Ropeway, a spectacular cable car journey that runs between Sōunzan and Togendai, offering sweeping views of the Owakudani Valley below. As we ascended, we could see plumes of white steam rising from the earth — the result of natural geothermal activity from the region’s volcanic base.

 

Known as the “Great Boiling Valley,” Owakudani was formed nearly 3,000 years ago during a volcanic eruption of Mount Hakone. Today, it is famous for its sulfuric springs, where the smell of minerals fills the air and the ground hisses softly through vents. The sight of bubbling pools and curling steam clouds against the green slopes was both eerie and fascinating — a vivid reminder of Japan’s volcanic heart.

From the ropeway, we could also catch glimpses of Lake Ashi (Ashinoko) — a crater lake formed by the last eruption of Mount Hakone about 3,000 years ago. Its deep blue waters glistened in the afternoon sun, framed by lush forests and distant mountains.

When we reached Togendai, we boarded a pirate-style cruise ship that glided gently across Lake Ashi. The lake is not only scenic but also symbolic — it offers one of the most famous views of Mt. Fuji on clear days. As the sun began to set, the waters reflected shades of gold and rose, and the surrounding hills turned into silhouettes against the glowing sky.

It was a moment of perfect stillness — the kind of beauty that lingers quietly in memory long after the journey ends.

 By the time we reached our hotel in Tokyo, night had settled softly over the town. We enjoyed a warm dinner buffet with vegetarian options, a pleasant surprise after a long, adventure-filled day. The calmness of Hakone, the distant scent of hot springs in the air, and the contentment of a day well spent wrapped us in quiet joy.

Mt. Fuji – Reflection

Our journey through Japan was just beginning, yet Tokyo and its surrounding wonders had already left a deep impression — of modern elegance, timeless culture, and gentle hospitality.

Standing at the 5th Station of Mt. Fuji, surrounded by drifting clouds and cool mountain air, I felt a deep stillness that words can hardly express. “Fuji-San,” as the Japanese lovingly call it, is not just a mountain—it’s a living symbol of strength, patience, and beauty. Its calm presence, despite its volcanic past, mirrors Japan’s quiet resilience. Watching the horizon fade into the mist, I realized that journeys like this remind us how nature humbles and heals at the same time.

 

                                                        PEACE ON EARTH

All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.