NEPAL Part 2.... MUKTINATH....MANAKAMANA....

Nepal Diaries – Part 2: From the Plains of Chitwan to the Sacred Heights of Muktinath

After exploring Kathmandu, our journey continued towards Chitwan and then onward to Mukti Nath, nestled within the breathtaking Annapurna circuit in the Mustang region of Nepal. As we traveled north, the majestic Himalayan peaks Dhaulagiri and Annapurna accompanied us like silent guardians, while the mighty Kali Gandaki River flowed alongside, guiding our path through the rugged mountain landscape.

Along the Beni–Jomsom Highway, we stopped at the spectacular Rupse Falls. The sight of the cascading water plunging down the rocky cliffs, combined with the cool mist that filled the air, offered a refreshing break and a memorable glimpse of Nepal's natural beauty.

By evening, we reached Jomsom, a charming mountain town known for its hiking lodges and modest hotels that cater to trekkers and pilgrims alike. We spent the night there under the watchful gaze of the Annapurna range, whose snow-capped peaks glowed softly against the evening sky.

The next morning, excitement filled the air as we prepared for our journey to Muktinath. The Nepal government has developed a good road connecting Jomsom and Muktinath, making travel easier for pilgrims and visitors. As we ascended through the rugged terrain, anticipation grew with every turn of the road.

Muktinath holds a special place in the hearts of Hindus. It is one of the 108 Divya Desams (Vishnu temples recognized by the Alwars – the 12 divine Vaishnava saints), the sacred shrines revered in the Vaishnav tradition. Growing up, our parents often spoke about Muktinath with great devotion, but they never had the opportunity to visit. As my sister Nirmala and I approached this holy destination, we felt deeply moved, knowing that we were fulfilling a dream they had cherished for many years.

The sacred site is equally important to Buddhists and devotees of Shakti traditions, making it a unique spiritual destination where different faiths meet in harmony. Situated at an elevation of about 3,800 meters (12,500 feet) above sea level, Muktinath stands amidst an awe-inspiring landscape of mountains and open skies.

We offered our prayers and worshipped the deities with gratitude and reverence. It was a bright, sunny day, and the distant mountain peaks shimmered against the clear blue sky. The atmosphere was filled with devotion as pilgrims from various places gathered to seek blessings. Standing there, we felt grateful to the divine power that had guided us thus far, and to the sages, gurus, and ancestors whose wisdom continues to illuminate our paths. For a few moments, we simply absorbed the peace of the mountains and the serenity of our surroundings.

Our next destination was the revered Manakamana Devi Temple in Nepal's Gorkha District. Perched atop Kafakdada Hill at an elevation of about 1,300 meters (4,300 feet), the temple is dedicated to the Mother Goddess believed to grant the heartfelt wishes of her devotees.

To reach the temple, we boarded the famous Manakamana Cable Car for a thrilling ride of nearly two kilometers from the valley floor to the hilltop. As the cable car glided above forests, rivers, and villages, we enjoyed sweeping views of the surrounding landscape.

At the top, we climbed a series of stone steps leading to the temple square. Small shops lined the pathway, displaying colorful baskets filled with flowers, fruits, and offerings for worshippers. The vibrant atmosphere added to the spiritual charm of the place.

We offered our prayers to Mother Goddess Manakamana Devi and spent time observing the temple traditions. Groups of devotees sang devotional songs praising the Goddess, creating a joyful and uplifting atmosphere. The temple preserves the ancient Gorkha traditions of worship, where offerings may include flowers, sweets, and, in accordance with longstanding customs, animal sacrifices by some devotees.

After completing our visit, we made our way back toward the cable car station. Along the path, we treated ourselves to hot vegetarian momos and a comforting cup of chiya, Nepal's delicious, spiced tea. The simple meal tasted especially wonderful in the cool mountain air.

As we descended the hill by cable car, we looked back at the temple and the beautiful landscape around us. Our hearts were filled with gratitude, peace, and renewed energy. The journey had brought us through magnificent mountains, sacred temples, and moments of deep reflection. As we continued our travels, we silently thanked the cosmic forces that had guided and blessed our path through this remarkable land.

 

                                                     PEACE ON EARTH

All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.

NEPAL Part 1.... KATHMANDU....HIMALAYAS....

Nepal Diaries – Part 1 - Sacred Evenings by the Bagmati River

There are some journeys that remain in memory not because of grand adventures, but because of the quiet spiritual moments that unexpectedly touch the soul. Our trip to Kathmandu was one such experience — a beautiful blend of devotion, mythology, history, and serenity.

Nepal guarded by the mighty Himalayas is a land locked country where nature rules.

 We stayed at Hotel Mahadev, nestled on the banks of the serene Bagmati River. The gentle sound of the flowing river and the peaceful temple atmosphere immediately slowed life down. Kathmandu felt ancient and alive at the same time — every narrow street, every prayer bell, and every incense-filled courtyard carried centuries of faith.

 As evening approached, we visited the sacred Guhyeshwari Temple, one of the revered Shakti Peethas. The temple radiated divine energy, and devotees moved quietly in prayer and reverence. From there, we walked nearly a kilometer toward the magnificent Pashupatinath Temple.

 

The evening Aarathi at Pashupatinath was unlike anything I had experienced before. In Varanasi and Haridwar, the Ganga Aarathi unfolds gracefully on the riverbanks. But here in Kathmandu, the ceremony takes place within the vast temple courtyard itself, creating a completely different atmosphere.

 

The rhythmic chants echoed through the temple grounds. Priests moved in synchronized devotion holding glowing oil lamps that illuminated the dusk. The fragrance of incense filled the cool evening air while devotees stood silently absorbed in prayer. For a few moments, time itself seemed to disappear. The chants, the lamps, and the collective devotion transported me into another world entirely.

 

The next morning, we returned to Pashupatinath Temple for darshan. The temple complex is deeply layered with history, legends, and sacred symbolism. One of the memorable experiences was worshipping the thousand lingas — each one representing centuries of unwavering faith.

 

Photography is not permitted inside the temple complex, and strangely, that restriction became a blessing. Without the distraction of cameras and phones, there was more time to truly observe — the ancient sculptures tucked into quiet alcoves, the intricate carvings weathered by time, the rituals performed with devotion, and the expressions of pilgrims lost in prayer. It became an experience of introspection rather than documentation.

 

Later that afternoon, we visited the beautiful Budhanilkantha Temple, also known as the Jal Narayan Temple. The massive reclining Vishnu statue floating in a pond was mesmerizing in its calmness and grandeur.

 

Local legends surrounding the statue are fascinating. One version says the royal family of Nepal avoided visiting the deity because unfortunate events were believed to follow the royals there. Another interpretation suggests that the ancient statue is actually Avalokiteshwara, worshipped by Buddhists.

 

What touched me most was how naturally Hinduism and Buddhism coexist in Nepal. Though Nepal is predominantly Hindu, Buddhism is equally nourished and respected. Temples, traditions, art, and beliefs beautifully intertwine, creating a spiritual harmony rarely seen elsewhere. Throughout Kathmandu, one can witness this remarkable amalgamation of two great religions born in the Indian subcontinent.

 Nepal did not feel like merely a destination. It felt like stepping into a living spiritual tapestry woven with legends, devotion, and timeless faith. Our next destination is Mukthinath.....

                                                    PEACE ON EARTH

All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.