Friday, July 04, 2025

Madagascar Part I... Antananarivo...Historic Sites...Lemurs


Madagascar: A Surprise Island Adventure off the African Coast Part I

During a memorable tour of South Africa during Christmas holidays, an impromptu idea from my brother and sister turned into an unforgettable detour — a visit to Madagascar, the fourth largest island in the world.  Lemur monkeys are the must see with their pranks and agility.  have written a quick blog on this. This time I am adding more details captured in my diary.

With no plans and just curiosity in our hearts, we boarded a flight to Antananarivo, the capital city, soaring across the sparkling expanse of the Indian Ocean. Checked into the Carlton Hotel, a well-appointed haven in the heart of the city. The hotel was decorated for Christmas. From the moment we arrived, the warmth of Malagasy hospitality stood out. The staff went above and beyond, and the food—fresh, flavorful, and infused with local flair—was a delight.


A Glimpse into Madagascar’s Rich Past


Madagascar’s history is as unique as its biodiversity. Once an important stop for traders from Asia, the Middle East, and Africa, it became a French colony in the late 19th century and gained independence in 1960. The island’s culture is deeply rooted in Malagasy traditions, and Malagasy and French are the official languages. You’ll hear both in everyday life—from bustling markets to historic sites.

Historic Landmarks and Royal Legacies

 One of the highlights of our stay was visiting the Queen’s Palace (Rova of Antananarivo). Perched atop the highest hill, this historic complex offers sweeping views of the city and stands as a powerful symbol of the Merina monarchy. Though damaged by fire years ago, restoration efforts have revived its grandeur, and walking through its halls was like stepping back into a regal past. The experience was like stepping into a living history book, the echoes of royal footsteps still whispering through the stone corridors.


Our explorations around Antananarivo began with a serene walk along the Lake Anosy, where we visited the Obelisk monument, commemorating Madagascar’s independence from French colonial rule. The Andohalo Cathedral, perched on a hill with panoramic views, stood as a symbol of the country’s colonial and spiritual past.


We couldn’t miss the Lemur Park, a lush sanctuary where we got up close with some of Madagascar’s most iconic residents—wide-eyed lemurs leaping across branches and peeking out curiously from the foliage. The park offered a wonderful introduction to the island’s exceptional wildlife, found nowhere else on earth.

Markets, Peppers, and the Magic of Malagasy Flavors

 Perhaps one of the most delightful parts of our Antananarivo experience was exploring the local spice markets. We were overwhelmed by the sheer variety of peppers—red, white, black, green—each with its own aroma and intensity. Stall after stall offered handcrafted spice blends, local herbs, and natural remedies. The aromas were intoxicating, and the sellers, with their friendly smiles, were eager to share stories of their wares.  We dined in cozy local eateries, tasting dishes that were simple yet bursting with spice and flavor. Vegetarian options were plenty, with rice, greens, and flavorful pepper sauces forming the heart of many meals.





Reflection

No trip to Madagascar would be complete without exploring its vibrant spice markets. The island is a treasure trove of exotic spices, and walking through the local bazaars was a sensory delight. We were enveloped in the rich aroma of freshly harvested peppers—black, white, red, and green—alongside vanilla pods, cinnamon bark, cloves, and turmeric. Each stall offered something unique, and the spicy scent lingered in the air like a warm embrace. The vendors were eager to share their knowledge, and we couldn’t resist bringing home fragrant souvenirs to relive the experience through our own cooking.

Madagascar is truly an exotic island, and we are continuing our journey to Ambohimanga - UNESCO World Heritage site, Central and Coastal Madagascar. 




Check Madagascar Part II  Sky Warrior's Travels...Thoughts...




 


                         PEACE ON EARTH


All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.
Madagascar Part II...Ambohimanga...Ampefy...

Into the Heart of Madagascar – Ampefy and Ambohimanga


 Leaving behind the lively rhythm of Antananarivo, we ventured westward into the peaceful highlands of Ampefy and the historically sacred hill of Ambohimanga—a journey that revealed Madagascar’s rural soul. Ambohimanga is about 15 miles west of Antananaviro.

 We also visited the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga, a UNESCO World Heritage

site and one of the most sacred places in Madagascar. Built by the Malagasy people, it served as the spiritual and political heart of the Merina kingdom. The stone gate, royal tombs, and wooden palace reflected an enduring pride and cultural resilience.

Ambohimanga – A UNESCO World Heritage Site


Our first stop was Ambohimanga, a hill steeped in sacred significance and considered the spiritual home of the Malagasy people. This UNESCO World Heritage Site includes royal tombs, traditional dwellings, and fortifications. Walking its stone paths, surrounded by ancient walls and endemic trees, gave us a deep sense of reverence.

 The Merina dialect is one of the eighteen dialects of the Malagasy people. The Merina kingdom played a major role in absorbing the multiple chiefdoms in the central Madagascar. King Ralambo is the powerful chief who made this possible. This remained powerful during the 17th and 18th centuries followed by a greater control of the entire Madagascar 

The site reflects the kingdom’s proud past and the fusion of spiritual, cultural, and political identity of the Merina people. Locals still come here to offer prayers and honor ancestors. It’s a quiet place, yet full of voice—speaking through stone, tradition, and wind.


 Ampefy – Waterfalls, Volcanoes, and Village Life


 Our trip took us west to Ampefy, a charming village surrounded by volcanic hills and crater lakes. It was a breath of fresh air from the city—quiet, green, and tranquil. The journey felt like a window into rural Malagasy life, where time seemed to slow down.


Driving on to Ampefy, we entered a landscape of gentle hills, volcanic lakes, and terraced farms. The Itasy Lake shone in the afternoon sun, and nearby, the majestic Lily Waterfalls roared over rocky cliffs. We hiked around, taking in the lush surroundings and watching children play in the river. The natural geysers with minerals have created small mounds and it was great to walk around the geysers with sulphur and minerals giving a unique crimson and orange hues.


Thatched -roof homes and red-earth roads painted a picturesque scene. The air was filled with the scent of earth, woodfire, and distant blossoms. It was a simple kind of beauty, deeply connected to nature and tradition.

The rural markets here were a vivid palette of color and life. We saw farmers selling homegrown produce, baskets of spices, and even handmade tools. Everything felt grounded and authentic. Life moved slowly, and the people welcomed us with quiet warmth.

Reflections

What began as an unplanned excursion turned into a deeply enriching journey. Madagascar surprised us with its layered history, unique ecology, vibrant markets, and the kindness of its people. Sometimes the most spontaneous choices create the most lasting memories—and this island gem, rising from the Indian Ocean, certainly left a mark on our hearts.


                            PEACE ON EARTH

All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.