Thursday, May 22, 2025

Greece 5…. Cape Sounion…. Delphi…. Meteora….

 Our Greek adventure continued with a trip that took us through the soul of mainland Greece—from the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion, to the mysterious ruins of Delphi, the legendary battleground of Thermopylae, and the ethereal cliffside monasteries of Meteora. Each destination unfolded a new layer of myth, memory, and majesty—and we were swept away.


Cape Sounion – Poseidon’s Sunset Watchtower

We started with a day trip to Cape Sounion, the southernmost tip of the Attica peninsula. Rising dramatically over the Aegean Sea stands the Temple of Poseidon, built in the 5th century BC and dedicated to the god of the sea. The views were breathtaking—especially at sunset, when the sky turned hues of gold and crimson as waves crashed below.

The air was thick with salt and stories. Our guide shared tales of Odysseus and sailors seeking safe passage, reminding us that this very spot has watched over seafarers for thousands of years. We found a cozy seaside taverna where we enjoyed a simple vegetarian meal of grilled vegetables, feta-stuffed peppers, and lemon potatoes, paired with local juice and a view that words can’t quite capture.

Delphi – The Navel of the Ancient World

We began our three-day mainland trip by heading northwest to Delphi, once considered the center—or navel—of the ancient world. The ruins of the Temple of Apollo, where the famed Oracle once whispered her cryptic prophecies, are well preserved. Standing among the columns and terraces, with views across the olive-laden Pleistos Valley, it was easy to imagine pilgrims arriving from all over the ancient world seeking wisdom.


The Delphi Archaeological Museum offered fascinating artifacts, including the bronze Charioteer and ancient inscriptions that brought the myths to life. Though the oracle has long fallen silent, the spirit of Delphi still lingers in the stones.

Lunch in Delphi was fresh and flavorful. We had Revithokeftedes (chickpea fritters), Horta Vratsa (wild boiled greens with lemon), and Moussaka—the vegetarian version, layered with eggplant and béchamel, and surprisingly delicious.

Thermopylae & Kalambaka – Where Legends and Warmth Meet

On our way north, we stopped at Thermopylae, the site of the legendary stand of King Leonidas and his 300 Spartans against the Persian army. Our guide painted a vivid picture of the narrow pass, the strategy, and the sacrifice. The Leonidas Monument stands tall, and though the original topography has changed due to silting, the spirit of defiance and heroism still echoes.


By evening, we arrived in Kalambaka, a charming town nestled at the base of Meteora’s towering rock formations. We stayed at Hotel Amalia, and their hospitality was nothing short of exceptional. The vegetarian buffet included everything from comforting local stews to fresh salads, but the highlight was the farm-made Melimelon—a luscious dessert made with quince berries and honey. Add to that a colorful array of spoon sweets (a Greek tradition) made with bergamot oranges, cherries, and grapes—and dessert turned into an event of its own. 


Meteora – Monasteries in the Sky

The final leg of our journey brought us to Meteora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most breathtaking places we’ve ever visited. Rising like stone pillars from the earth, the cliffs of Meteora are crowned with centuries-old monasteries that seem to float between heaven and earth.

We visited a few of the still-active monasteries, marveling at the frescos, the quiet chapels, and the sheer engineering marvel of how they were built. The panoramic views from the cliffs—of the vast Thessalian plain, winding rivers, and distant mountains—were simply stunning. It’s no wonder monks came here seeking spiritual elevation; the place feels otherworldly.

Even lunch that day was served with a view—a rustic eatery overlooking the valley served stuffed vine leaves, briam (Greek roasted vegetables), and warm, crusty bread with local olive oil and a Greek salad with feta cheese.

Final Reflections

This trip was a blend of time travel and tranquility—of standing where ancient voices once echoed, and of finding peace among natural wonders. From Poseidon’s temple bathed in sunlight to the shadowed rocks of Meteora holding monasteries like secrets, each stop gave us something to remember. More than anything, though, it was the warmth of the people—guides, hosts, chefs, and strangers alike—that made this journey unforgettable.

We left with full hearts, and a renewed sense of awe for the myths and mountains of Greece.




                                     PEACE ON EARTH



All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.

Wednesday, May 21, 2025

Greece 4…. Athens…. Islands….

 

I have already written a blog on Greece a memorable trip with my mother in 2003 and my visit to Santorini. This time, I went on a leisurely trip with my siblings Partha and Nirmala. Our trip to Greece began in the heart of ancient civilization—Athens. A city where the past and present coexist effortlessly, Athens welcomed us with a warm Mediterranean breeze and a skyline punctuated by the timeless silhouette of the Acropolis. It was nice to stay in the same Athens Hilton.

Athens – A Journey Through Time

Exploring Athens felt like walking through a living museum. We started our journey at the iconic Acropolis, climbing the rocky hill under the golden morning sun to marvel at the Parthenon, Erechtheion, and Temple of Athena Nike. It’s a surreal feeling, standing amidst structures that have watched over the city for over two millennia. Acropolis was under reconstruction.                

A visit to the Acropolis Museum gave us a deeper appreciation of the artifacts and stories behind the ruins. From there, we strolled through Plaka, the old neighborhood of Athens, where narrow streets are lined with pastel-colored houses, quaint shops, and inviting tavernas. For lunch, we found a charming taverna tucked into the Plaka district. Greece offered variety of Vegetarian menu for us.  In the evenings, Athens transformed. The Monastiraki and Psiri districts came alive with music, bustling squares, and rooftop bars. We had dinner at Athens Hilton with a view of the Acropolis lit up under the stars—a memory that will stay with us forever.                                                                             



The Cruise: Hydra, Poros & Aegina – Island Escapade

After soaking in the culture and history of Athens, it was time to embrace the Aegean Sea. We boarded a one-day cruise to the Saronic Islands—a perfect blend of leisure, charm, and scenic beauty.

Hydra – Car-Free Serenity

Our first stop was Hydra, a picturesque island where cars are banned and donkeys are the main mode of transport. The harbor, lined with stone mansions and cozy cafes, was a postcard come to life. We wandered through narrow alleyways, shopped for handmade jewelry and crafts, and paused for coffee with a view of the deep-blue waters. The island’s tranquility and old-world charm were incredibly refreshing.

Poros – A Touch of Green

Next, we cruised to Poros, a lush island known for its pine forests and neoclassical architecture. Though smaller, Poros had a unique elegance. We took a walk up to the Clock Tower, the island’s symbol, and were rewarded with panoramic views of the port and the surrounding hills. There was time to dip our toes in the sea and relax before heading back to the boat.

Aegina – Pistachios and Ancient Temples


Our final stop was Aegina, famous for its pistachios and rich history. We sampled locally roasted pistachios and even tried pistachio ice cream—absolutely divine. For history lovers, Aegina doesn’t disappoint. We visited the Temple of Aphaia, one of the best-preserved ancient temples in Greece, nestled on a hill overlooking the sea.



Before returning to Athens, we had cool fresh orange juice on the deck, basking in the golden hour light. The cruise was more than just a day trip; it was a peaceful counterpoint to the buzz of the city, and a chance to see another side of Greek life.

Athens gave us a powerful sense of history and culture, while the cruise to Hydra, Poros, and Aegina offered relaxation, beauty, and charm. Together, they made the perfect Greek getaway—one that blended myth and reality, the old and the new, and left us with stories to tell for years to come.

 






                            


                                           PEACE ON EARTH




All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.

Thursday, May 15, 2025

VARANASI PART 2.....PRAYAGRAj....AYODHYA....

In February 2025, my sister and I set out on a journey across some of India’s most revered spiritual destinations: Varanasi, Gaya, Prayagraj, and Ayodhya. This wasn’t just a pilgrimage—it was a solemn and heartfelt tribute to our beloved brother Partha, who passed away in February 2024. The goal: to complete his first death anniversary rituals, and to find peace in the sacredness of India’s cultural and spiritual heritage. Though the pain of loss still lingered, this journey became a path toward peace, closure, and spiritual connection.

We began our journey with an Indigo flight from Chennai to Varanasi. As we landed in the holy city, I felt a calm silence settle in, as though Varanasi had already begun its healing.

Varanasi: A Ritual of Remembrance

Arriving in Varanasi, we were enveloped once again by the rhythm of the Ganges and the chants that drift endlessly from its ghats. The city felt timeless, offering both a stage for sacred ritual and a silent companion for grief. Walking through the ghats, I was reminded of life’s transience and the peace that can be found in letting go.

The river carried more than just the ritual offerings—it carried our love, our sorrow, and perhaps, our brother’s soul toward liberation.

Prayagraj: The Confluence of Faith



From Varanasi, we traveled to Prayagraj, where the sacred Triveni Sangam—the meeting point of the Ganga, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati—invites millions seeking purification. This year is the Maha Kumbh Mela which comes every 144 years. We felt blessed to be in India during this time of the year. The regular Kumbh Mela is calculated with the Sun’s movement, and it occurs every 12 years. We went to the confluence and offered prayers, letting the sacred waters wash over us in a symbolic act of release and renewal.


It was here, amid the vast waters and open skies, that I felt the enormity of life and death converge—like the rivers themselves—into something both sacred and eternal.

Gaya: Peace for the Departed

Next, we made our way to Gaya, where we continued the death anniversary rituals. The ancient Vishnupad Temple, built around the footprint of Lord Vishnu, stood in solemn grace as we prayed for our brother’s peace and journey forward. Prayed for our parents, our ancestors, relatives, and all the known and unknown departed souls.  This part of the journey brought us a quiet, profound sense of closure. Our brother’s soul had been remembered with love and devotion in one of the holiest ways possible.

Ayodhya: Hope in Devotion

 Our final destination was Ayodhya, the birthplace of Lord Rama. The city was radiant with devotion and pride, especially with the newly consecrated Sri Rama Temple standing tall as a beacon of faith and national sentiment.

We joined thousands of devotees in offering our prayers, marveling at the temple’s architecture, but more so at the emotional weight it carried—for generations had longed to see this moment. Being part of that collective devotion was humbling and healing.

In Ayodhya, amidst the chants of “Jai Shri Ram,” there was a sense of surrender—of letting go, of placing our grief in divine hands.

A Journey of Closure and Continuity

This was a journey of spiritual closure, of rituals, remembrance, and inner stillness. Through the sacred cities of Varanasi, Prayagraj, Gaya, and Ayodhya, we honored our brother and allowed our grief to find its sacred space. By doing so, it reminded us that even in loss, there is love, memory, and the enduring presence of spirit.

 





                                 PEACE ON EARTH


All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.

Tuesday, May 13, 2025

Varanasi Part 1…. Gaya…. Rishikesh....

 In the summer of 2005, I embarked on a journey that would leave an indelible mark on my heart—a spiritual pilgrimage with my mother, brother and sister to some of India’s most sacred cities: Varanasi, Gaya, Haridwar, and Rishikesh. It was more than just a trip; it was a soulful experience.

Our journey began in Varanasi, the city where spirituality seeps through every alley and ghats echo with ancient chants. My mother had always spoken about Varanasi with a certain awe and experiencing it by her side brought her words to life. We walked along the ghats, watched the flickering lamps of the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, and took a serene boat ride at sunrise—where the first rays of light touched the Ganges like a blessing.

We visited Kashi Vishwanath Temple, one of the twelve sacred Jyotirlingas, and despite the crowd there was a strange calm in the chaos. My Mother's face lit up with devotion. I remember feeling an immense gratitude for sharing that moment with her.

After visiting the Ma Annapoorani, Ma Visalakshi, Sri Ganesha, Sri Durga and Sri Hanuman temples we looked the Ganges River with gratitude.

From Varanasi, we traveled to Gaya, an ancient city sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. For Hindus, it is a place where "pind daan" is offered to ancestors to ensure their peace in the afterlife. We performed the rituals on the banks of the Phalgu River, guided by the local priests. I could sense a deep sense of fulfillment in my mother’s eyes as she offered her prayers for those who came before us.


We also visited the Vishnupad Temple, said to be built around the footprint of Lord Vishnu. The aura of the temple and the stories shared by the priests gave us a glimpse into the eternal cycle of life, death, and liberation. 

We went to Bodh Gaya and worshipped the sacred temples and the peepul tree. A very peaceful feeling.




Next, we found ourselves in Haridwar (the gateway to the Gods), one of the oldest living cities in the world and a revered pilgrimage site. As we dipped into the holy Ganges at Har Ki Pauri, my mother whispered prayers under her breath, her hands folded in reverence. The evening Ganga Aarti there was a sight to behold—hundreds of diyas floating on the water, priests chanting, bells ringing in unison—it felt as if the entire universe paused in devotion.


Our final stop was Rishikesh, a place that seemed to exist outside time. We stayed at the serene Swami Dayananda Saraswati Ashram, located right on the banks of the Ganges. Surrounded by the gentle sounds of the flowing river and the rustle of trees, the ashram was a haven of peace.



The time we spent there was slow and intentional—early morning meditations, evening Satsang's (Prayers) and simple yet nourishing meals shared in silence. I remember walking with my mother along the riverbank, talking about life, the past, and what lies beyond. It was during those quiet moments that I felt the depth of her wisdom and the strength of our connection.

 

We visited Parmarth Niketan, saw the Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula, and explored the spiritual energy that hummed throughout the city. But nothing compared to the stillness and clarity we felt at the ashram—a place that allowed us to simply be.

Looking back, that trip in 2005 wasn’t just about visiting temples or taking part in rituals—it was about returning to something essential. It was about shared prayers, silent conversations, and the timeless rhythm of the Ganges that mirrored the flow of life itself. Traveling with my mother through these sacred lands not only brought us closer to our roots but also to each other.

Even now, when life feels noisy and overwhelming, I close my eyes and picture the sunrise in Varanasi, the sacred rituals of Gaya, the glowing lamps of Haridwar, and the quiet banks of Rishikesh. And just like that, I’m back on that journey—with my mother, in the heart of India’s eternal soul.



                                            PEACE ON EARTH

PEACE ON EARTH
All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.

Thursday, May 08, 2025

Italy....Venice.... Murano....

My first visit to Venice was in the summer of 1998, a carefree stop on a whirlwind Eurail adventure with friends. We were eager, and full of wanderlust, hopping from city to city with backpacks and boundless energy. I remember the magic of Venice then—the labyrinth of canals, the echoes of footsteps on cobblestone alleys, the salty breeze mingling with the aroma of espresso.


More than two decades later, I returned to Venice with my siblings—but this time, the journey carried a deeper meaning. It wasn’t just a trip; it was a continuation of a family tradition, a tribute to our parents’ memory, and a quiet celebration of the bonds that endure. 

We arrived at Marco Polo Airport on a bright autumn day. The air was crisp, with that golden clarity unique to fall. The sky, a soft shade of blue, mirrored the calm waters that awaited us. From the airport, we took the ferry to our hotel—an entrance to Venice as poetic as the city itself. As we glided through the lagoon, the familiar silhouettes of domes and bell towers appeared on the horizon, welcoming us back. 

This time, I took it slower. The city didn’t feel like a destination to be checked off a list, but rather a space to breathe, reflect, and reconnect. We wandered through the narrow streets, pausing often—not just to take photos, but to take it all in including the Venetian coffee and gelato!

St. Mark’s Square was as grand as ever. The basilica’s mosaics shimmered in the soft light, and the square buzzed with quiet wonder rather than hurried tourism. The pigeons still claimed their corners, and the sound of live music floated from nearby cafés.

One of the highlights of our trip to Venice was visiting the renowned Murano glass factory. Nestled on the small island of Murano, just a short boat ride from the city, the factory gave us an unforgettable glimpse into the centuries-old tradition of Venetian glassmaking with remarkable speed and precision. The combination of fire, color, and craftsmanship was mesmerizing, and it gave us a deeper appreciation for the artistry and heritage behind Murano glass. Walking through the gallery of finished pieces felt like strolling through a museum of living art.


As we walked along the canals and crossed the arched bridges, memories of that first trip gently surfaced. But this visit added new layers—ones filled with gratitude, remembrance, and a sense of coming full circle.

Venice, with its timeless charm, reminded me that while much has changed over the years, the essence of discovery—whether of places, people, or memories—remains beautifully the same.





                                                                 PEACE ON EARTH


All content copyright © by Sobana Iyengar.